How Much Does It Cost to Install A Backup Generator

Choosing A Back-Up Generator For Your Home

A major question for homeowners considering a backup generator is choosing between gasoline or propane as well as one of the more convenient fuels, "natural gas". Each source has its own pros and cons but the decision will depend on what a home already has installed. If you live in an area where natural gas is available this would be the best for you since it would be the most convenient and requires less maintenance. For homes without natural gas, propane is a good alternative. Both natural gas and propane tend to last longer and burn cleaner than their gasoline counterparts. Gasoline generators are by far the most common type since gasoline is readily available and still remains a relatively inexpensive fuel in comparison to propane, but a gas generator usually requires frequent maintenance and storage of gasoline which has a relatively short shelf life.

A Backup Generator:
How Much Does It Cost to Install A Backup Generator

Cost A Backup Generator ( 800w gasoline generator ): US $208.25
More details: 800w gasoline generator 220V single phase mini small home outdoor travel car portable

Other types of Backup Generator

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Problem: How Much Does It Cost to Install A Backup Generator?


How to install the generator 

The installation of a generator set must follow certain rules, must strictly respect the rules for proper and appropriate operation of the equipment.

Complete equipment may suffer abnormal wear and wear if the basic rules are not followed. This guide lists the main installation requirements for "traditional" machines with an engine with an IC (integrated circuit), generator and a control panel.

Positioning

 
Location of the machine: It will be determined by the generator application. However, the location of the machine should be placed close to ventilation, hot air radiators and noise that is not uncomfortable for you. Do not wait until the last minute to plan the installation.
 

Size and layout

 
Depending on the two types of requests:
 

1 - A static layout

 
These requirements relate to the size of the equipment installed with its peripherals, namely: daily updates, control panel, exhaust, muffler, batteries, etc. Which is most convenient for cleaning the machine, taking care of fuel, ventilation and heat dissipation conveniently or not, ...

2 - Layout can be moved

 
These requirements relate to the space around the location of the machine being installed that allows for easy maintenance or removal. Clearance around the machine about 1m is the minimum requirement for maintenance. Make sure the doors can be fully opened, and the device is easily accessible for maintenance and moving out of the room when needed.
 

3 - Structure

 
If the sound level and the startup noise are not important, the generator can be installed in a simple shelter to protect it from the weather (snow, rain, thunder, etc.).

If the operating noise affects the environment, such as a hospital or your home near sensitive areas, or you have someone in need of special care, you may need to build a machine room. emitting with at least 20 cm of concrete casting, covered with absorbent fireproof insulating material.
 

4 - Entrance door

 
The engine room must have a number of openings necessary for the operation of the machine.
  • One stop shop suitable for moving created settings and accessories inside and out.
  • Doors must be ventilated (fresh air inlet, warm air outlet for safe refueling (See more details in Generator safety), heat dissipation for generators and no unpleasant odor.

Cooling

 
Heat needs to be cooled from three sources:
  • Water is used to cool the engine.
  •  Air is used to ventilate the engine room.
  • Types of exhaust gas.


Cost to Install A Backup Generator

Generators are sized in kW or kilowatts, so a 10kW generator will produce 10 kilowatts or 10,000 watts of power.  A qualified generator installer can help you determine the proper generator size after calculating the anticipated electrical loads.

Keep in mind, a standby generator can be connected to all of your home’s electrical circuits or just a few “essential circuits”.  Examples of the more common essential circuits include the refrigerator/freezer, kitchen receptacles, a few light and receptacle circuits, the fan blower motor for gas heating equipment, the security system, garage door opener and, if you have them, water pumps and sump pumps.  Most of these circuits do not require a large amount of power to keep them operational but it’s important to consider the sum total of each of these loads when sizing a standby system.

A very popular and “easy on the budget” generator is a “20kW” (20,000 Watts) model.  It’s easy on the budget because most 20kW generators are air-cooled (as compared to “liquid-cooled”) and cost around $5,000.00, including a 200-Amp Automatic Transfer Switch (ATS). 

Make sure you match the size of the ATS with the size of the load center it will be connected to.  Most 20kW generators are connected to a 200-Amp load center and, thus, come with a 200-Amp ATS.  If the generator will be connected to a 150-Amp or 100-Amp load center, the ATS should match the size of the breaker panel.  So--if the ATS is to be connected to a 100-Amp load center, you will need a 100-Amp Automatic Transfer Switch.

If your home is 2500 square feet or less, a 20kW generator should suit your needs well, particularly if you have gas heat and hot water.  If the range top is also gas, all the better.  A 20kW generator will run most house receptacles, lights, and up to a 5-ton central air conditioner. 

When a generator is connected to all house circuits, the installation is referred to as a “whole house generator installation.”  Connecting only a few essential circuits, or “partial house generator”, can be an effective means of providing power to electrical circuits important to you while saving on overall project costs.


Let’s say you are looking for a budget-friendly installation of a “partial house generator.”  You have one or two breaker panels, gas heat and hot water, and you’ve identified the following electrical circuits as “essential” while operating under generator power: 

kitchen receptacles and lights (including refrigerator/freezer)
the fan blower motor for your gas heat
the security system
garage door opener
downstairs lights and receptacles, and
the downstairs central air conditioning unit.  You have a second air conditioner and heating system for the upstairs, but this area of the home is not important to you while operating on generator power.
The “essential circuits” listed above might be installed on both of your breaker panels.  Your objective will be to move the "essential circuits" to one of your two breaker panels.  The panel holding these "essential circuits" can be referred to as your "generator panel" because the generator will energize only the circuits located on that circuit breaker panel.  The other circuit breaker panel will hold non-essential loads like the upstairs circuits, the upstairs air conditioning and, perhaps, your laundry equipment.  Those circuits will not be energized by the generator.

So--in the above illustration, you would need just one (1) ATS appropriately sized to match the size of the circuit breaker panel it is connected.

If your 2-story home has just one circuit breaker panel rated at 200-Amps, there is no need to install a second panel for this installation.  You just need a 200-Amp ATS that is also service-entrance rated.

Most manufacturers include ways to load-shed the non-essential loads, such as a second air conditioner or hot-water heater.  Even though the upstairs lights and receptacles are still “hot”, these circuits will not consume power from the generator unless a light is turned “on” or an appliance is operated from a receptacle.  What’s important is to disable heavier non-essential loads such as air conditioning, electric hot water heaters with load-shed devices available from the generator manufacturer.

Now it’s time to determine the right generator for the job
Now that we’ve identified which electrical circuits are important, we can project the total electrical load from these same loads.  Here’s a sample scenario during the summer months where we are doing the laundry but we’re conserving power and not operating the washing machine and dryer at the same time.  We’re also not operating any cooking appliances.  Someone is watching TV and downstairs, one ceiling fan is “on” as well as the downstairs air conditioner.  Let’s look at the results:

We’re conserving power where possible because, for budgetary constraints, we decided to have a 20kW air-cooled generator installed.  The 20kW generator coupled with a 200-Amp Automatic Transfer Switch can be connected to all house circuits installed on a 200-Amp Load Center, making it a “whole house generator” for homes 2500 square feet and less.  Keep in mind the generator is rated at 20kW when using LP as the fuel source, and 18kW for natural gas.


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